My first long bead

Grover Richardson
Demonstration - Golden Lilly 2005 - Gainesville Georgia

A large variety of tools will make tasks simple, but much may be done with just the basic tools and a little ingenuity.

            Anvils               The Anvil (or equivalent) is necessary.  In times of old, people just used large flat rocks.  However, if you can’t find an anvil, any large piece of metal which is flat and thick could be used.  Old pieces of railroad track work wonderfully.  Particularly if they are altered by torch cutting and grinding.  Still, an unaltered piece of railroad track is very useful.

            NOTE:            Removing metal from the railroad tracks is illegal.

A new anvil will run about $5.00 per pound.  A used anvil will run about $1-2.00 per pound.  This is for full blacksmith grade quality anvils.  However, some people think that their particular anvil is better than the average pricing.  Haggling (with good humor) is normal among these folk.

            A good anvil should have a flat table surface with no uneven places.  It should be very smooth, as any pattern in the top of the anvil will be pounded into your work.  It is ok for an anvil to have rounded edges.  This is preferable in many instances.  A little rust (but no pitting) is ok.  Some anvils have been repaired by welding on the table surface.  Ask if the anvil has been repaired.  The effects of the repair or the quality of the repair will not always be visible.  Ask about who did the repairs and his/her skills at welding.

            A good size for an anvil, for occasional hobby work, is between 40 and 100 pounds.  Smaller than that, and it will bounce around when you are hammering.  Larger than that, and you have a hard time moving it.  The anvil should be solid and not move when it is used.

            In general, a hobbiest will work only metal smaller than ½” square in cross section.  Sometimes, when there are two hammering at the same time, you may work 1” in cross section, but after a couple of times of this, you will consider buying a power hammer, and you should begin to look at Blacksmithing as being a side job<G>.

            There are some anvils which are produced in the North Georgia mountains as a side line at a nearby foundry, when there is metal left over.  These anvils are cast, ground, and flame hardened.  They aren’t as hard as a regular anvil, but for a hobbiest, they are great.  The price is well under $1.00 per pound, new.  Look for them under the benches at the flea market to the West of Helen Georgia.  This place also has Chinese hammers and tongs.  Check these anvils carefully for cracks, as they are of variable quality.

            Stumps            The anvil is mounted to a stump.  The stump should be large enough to provide a solid base for the anvil.  Some people prefer oak.  I prefer pine because it is lighter and easier to tote around for demonstrations.

            The anvil should be “pinned” to the anvil with nails so that it won’t move around on the stump top when you are hammering.  However, resist firmly the idea  of nailing the anvil firmly to the stump.  If you can’t remove the anvil from the stump, you can’t move them separately.  Moving them both together takes several large men, sometimes more.

            There is the possibility of bugs getting into your stump.  A little spray or sealing may be helpful.  Also, the stump may be spaced up above the ground by placing it on a couple of solid concrete blocks.  This provides moisture and termite protection.

            The stump and anvil combination should place the top of the anvil even with the knuckles of a balled up fist, when your hand is hanging at your side.  The anvil should be level and solid on the top of the stump.  It’s recommended that the anvil be held in place on the stump with nails.  However, do NOT permanently affix the anvil to the stump.  Otherwise it becomes very difficult to move the combination.

            Hammers         I started out with just a framing hammer (carpenter’s hammer).  The standard blacksmith hammer is the 2 ½ pound “cross peen” hammer.  I have found that I don’t hammer enough to keep my arm in shape, and prefer the 1 ½ pound cross peen (also a blacksmith standard).  This is also great for lighter framed men and/or ladies.

            The cross peen hammer is a great all around tool.  It will do much of the work that you wish.  However, an assortment to include the engineer’s hammer (also known as the ball peen hammer), and the sledge hammer are not unreasonable.  I have about a dozen hammers (some duplicates because I have guests hammering sometimes) myself.

            Tongs               These are the “pliers like thingies” which hold the hot metal.  I started off with a pair of vice grips and channel locks.  Then graduated to real Tongs.  There is an infinite variety of tongs.  Unless you do a lot of a wide variety of work, a set of (actually one plier device) bolt tongs which hold ½” square and, a set of bolt tongs which holds ¼” square metal will do for most all that you will have to do.  The square tongs will hold round and odd shaped metal quite nicely.

            Remember, if you can’t hold it very well, you can’t do your work very well.

            Cut Off            Periodically it will be necessary to cut a piece of metal.  A hack saw works well.  Or, you can use a metal chisel held in a pair of vice grips.  But, when you can afford it, get a “cut off hardie.”  The hardie fits in the hardie hole of the anvil and thus does not need to be held. 

            There are a large variety of hardies.  Some are cut-offs, some are swages, some are third hands.  Look in the catalogs.  If you are handy with metal, you can make your own.

            Gloves/Apron/Glasses            Remember safety gear.  Always wear close top shoes.  Though you may not be touching the hot metal, often pieces of hot rust (called scale) will fly off the metal (particularly when twisting or bending) and land on nearby parts of you.  Therefore leather gloves are very good (standard welder’s gloves are great).  If you can’t find them, then something like “Mule Brand” gardening gloves are a reasonable substitute. 

            Always get the gloves large.  If you feel heat through the glove, you must be able to sling the glove (one handed, you don’t have time to take it off) off of your hand before the real heat starts to roast your hand.  Don’t get the gloves wet.  Steam burns very badly, and very quickly.

            A Levi jean or leather apron is important if you don’t want burn holes in your clothing.  If you put on a pocket, put it on the inside/people side.  Otherwise a hot piece of metal may wind up laying in the pocket and make a fire.  It should extend to the knees.

            Safety glasses are very important.  Green ones (gas welding torch type) are better if you are looking into a coal fire.  You can buy the “inexpensive plastic inspection safety glasses” for like $5.00 or so at any welding supply shop.  With care, they last a long time.  They make special (expensive) Dididdium glasses for people who do it for a living. 

 

            DANGER!!!!              A BIC lighter has enough fuel inside it to equal to 3 sticks of dynamite.  Never have them in your pockets or near a forge or anvil during work.  If you light the fire, put the lighter up high out of the way.  This is a serious danger.  People HAVE lost legs because a hot piece of metal fell in their pocket and caused an explosion.

            The Shop                The shop area doesn’t have to be big.  It really depends upon the work you will be doing.  I have an outdoor shop with only a roof which is 10’ x 12”  It works well.  I run a power cord to it for the lights and the electric blowers.

            However, the floor must be non-combustible.  Also, there is the distinct possibility that hot metal may fly into some corner.  Using a wood working shop with lots of sawdust as a forge shop is not a good idea.

            Other Tools                Though it is possible to do all the work at the forge, for savings of time and effort almost all blacksmiths have a bank of grinders, drills, air compressors, and welders to make their life easy. 

            Though it is possible to forge a knife completely and to hand file it to perfection, unless this is done for ritual purposes, it is best filed with a grinding stone<G>.

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Grover´s Blacksmith group at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/The_Anvil/

 

There are so many websites about Blacksmithing. Here just some view I came across several times. If you would like to add a link, please do so.


HOW DO I GET STARTED IN BLACKSMITHING
http://www.anvilfire.com/FAQs/getstart/index.htm


Blacksmith Fundamentals
Blacksmith Practice  
http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/blacksmith/farmshop.html


www.anvilfire.com
Blacksmithing and Metalworking Reference


http://www.allshops.org/index_blacksmiths.shtml
Blacksmiths Discussion Group.
Hosted by the Metalshapers Association.


http://www.abana.org/
Artist Blacksmith Association of North America
http://magichammer.freeservers.com/abana_image_map.htm
Here you can find a Blacksmith group in your area.


http://afc.abana-chapter.com/
Alabama Forge Council.
Check out their “Technique” section!!


For Ontario:


http://ontarioblacksmith.ncf.ca/
Ontario Artist Blacksmith Association


http://www.highlandforge.ca/aboutus.html
Highland Forge
General Blacksmithing and School of Blacksmithing.
Edited: March 28, 2005 The website does not exist anymore. Just found following online:
"Bryan the Blacksmith", of Highland Forge School of Blacksmithing passed away suddenly and peacefully as a result of a heart attack at home in Westport, November 13, 2004 at the age of 59."


http://www.artistblacksmith.com/
Coal Suppliers in Ontario.
I found this page but I can not tell you anything about that supplier who is listed there!!


Some yahoo groups:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blacksmiths/

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/The_Anvil/

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/thenewblacksmiths/

 

 

....a friend told me this. I wonder, how much does the hammering affect the ears?

I did not notice anything. I mean, I was not bothered by the "ring-ring". But I also saw a blacksmith protecting the ears with ear plugs.

A forge only needs to be a “chamber” to hold and insulate the heat from the outside world.  It needs an air inlet in the side or bottom of the forge, and something to blow the air.  The bottom air inlet is a modern style, which heats more evenly, but gets clogged with clinker more readily.

1.         Hole in the ground (Primitive Style)

                        Merely a hole (best in the side of a hill so that you won’t have to bend over constantly), lined with fire brick (or 4” thick solid cap block solid concrete block, which will last quite a while), with a metal pipe on one end into which air is blown.

2.         Brake Drum

                        An old brake drum, removed from service, lined with fire clay (regular clay will work for quite a while) to insulate the fire from the metal brake drum.  It must be installed on a metal table.  The bottom center of it must have an inlet for air from a blower.  Electrical conduit with a diameter greater than 1” is excellent for the air inlet.

3.         Bar-B-Q Pit

                        Similar to a hole in the ground, but built up of masonry materials.  Regular concrete blocks and regular mortar will last quite a while.

4.            Storebought

                        There are a large variety of forges out there.  Expect to spend at least $100.00 for a coal forge (used), and more than $400 for a propane forge new.  Look around.  If you are only doing it part time, any of the others previously mentioned should be more than “good enough.”

 

Fuels

1.         Electric:

                        Advantage--easy to control

                        Advantage--may be done inside easily

                        Advantage--little explosion and fume hazard

                        Disadvantage--cost of operation

                        Disadvantage--will not readily reach a welding heat

2.         Gas (Propane or Natural)

                        Advantage--quiet, easy to control

                        Advantage--even heat over a large area

                        Advantage--will reach welding heat with a blower

                        Disadvantage--fuel cost may be a factor

                        Disadvantage--can explode if mishandled

3.         Coal (good or bad coal)

                        Advantage--cheap

                        Advantage--quiet

                        Advantage--reaches welding heat easily

                        Disadvantage--requires constant maintenance

                        Disadvantage--uneven heat, builds up clinker, lots of smoke

                        Disadvantage--can explode if mishandled

                        Good coal good for all purposes

                        Bad coal good for everyday work

                        Good coal available washed and sized

4.         Coke

                        Same advantages and disadvantages as coal except minimal smoke

                        Sometimes hard to find in small quantities.

5.            Charcoal

                        Advantage--easy to find

                        Disadvantage--makes a lot of white dust

                        Disadvantage--takes a lot

                        Disadvantage--doesn’t make as hot a fire in storebought style briquette.

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Thanks for sending me this document and for the permission to post it.